WALKING THROUGH CARMARTHENSHIRE IN AUTUMN: PART
ONE
Carmarthenshire is a place of rolling landscapes, coastal trails, and ancient woodlands, and for us – Carys, who’s originally from Ammanford, and Stacey – this trip with Discover Carmarthenshire felt like a journey through familiar and fresh terrains. Over two days, we reconnected with Carys’s roots and discovered new paths, all while soaking up the breathtaking scenery that makes this part of Wales so special.
Day 1: Coastal Paths, Swiss Valley, and Scenic Reservoirs
Morning: Millennium Coastal Path, Llanelli
We started our adventure with the Millennium Coastal Path, a scenic 13-mile stretch that forms part of the Wales Coast Path. Beginning at North Dock in Llanelli, the route took us around the serene Sandy Water Park and up to Pwll Pavilion. Walking along this path, with views stretching across the GowerPeninsula, felt like a peaceful escape. This route is accessible for walkers, cyclists, and even families with buggies, making it a versatile adventurers.
Adding to the path’s historical intrigue, we discovered that famed aviator Amelia Earhart landed nearby at Burry Port in 1928, marking her as the first woman to fly across the Atlantic. As we walked, it was inspiring to imagine her historic arrival on these very shores, tying Carmarthenshire’s beauty to a momentous piece of history.
Lunch at St Elli Bay Bistro & Brasserie
After our walk, we stopped for lunch at St Elli Bay Bistro, located right in North Dock. The bistro provided a much-needed refuel, with delicious food and stunning views over the Gower. This scenic spot was perfect for unwinding before heading to our next destination.
Afternoon: Swiss Valley Reservoir
Our next adventure took us to the Swiss Valley Reservoir, a hidden gem just north of Llanelli. This area is home to the Cwm Lliedi Reservoirs, which offer several scenic trails through woodland and along the reservoir’s edge. The main loop around the lower reservoir is a gentle, 2-mile circuit ideal for leisurely walkers, with well-maintained paths and shaded spots under the trees.
For those seeking a bit more challenge, the trails around the upper reservoir wind through denser woodland, the way, we spotted a variety of local wildlife, including waterbirds and wildflowers dotting the path. The western path around the reservoir is also accessible, allowing for more inclusive access to this beautiful landscape.
As a unique addition to our walk, we had the opportunity to explore the reservoir by boat with Live Free Adventures. Rowing along the perspective on the landscape, with the stillness of the water amplifying the sense
of calm that envelops Swiss Valley. We ended our visit with coffee and indulgent treats at Hiatus Coffee nearby, reservoir.
Evening: A Cosy Stay at The Mill at Glynhir and Ammanford’s Nightlife
After a day of exploring, we checked into The Mill at Glynhir in Llandybie, a beautifully restored B&B nestled in the Amman Valley. Known for its warm hosts and cosy charm, The Mill has become a favourite for visitors seeking both comfort and character. The building itself, rich with history, has been lovingly restored, preserving its original millstone and beamed ceilings, creating an atmosphere that is both inviting and uniquely Welsh. We felt instantly at home, surrounded by the lush countryside and a sense of timelessness that only places like this can offer.
Later, we ventured into Ammanford for dinner at Blas, a modern and vibrant spot. Dining here was a treat and we took advantage of the tapas on the menu ordering a selection of delicious dishes. Our evening ended with a signature cocktail at The Poison Apple, a quirky gem that’s bringing a fresh vibe to the area’s nightlife
Day 2: Riverside Trails, Newton House, and Historic Castles Morning: Amman Valley Riverside Path
Amman Valley Riverside Path
We began day two with a walk along the Amman Valley Riverside Path. This 9-kilometer trail between Ammanford and Upper Brynamman follows the River Amman, winding through woodlands and past fields that once held the heartbeat of Carmarthenshire’s coal mining heritage. With the sun filtering through the trees, we spotted kingfishers, wagtails, and even the occasional buzzard circling overhead. For Carys, this path held echoes of childhood memories, while for Stacey, it was a beautiful introduction to Carmarthenshire’s quieter, wilder side.
Coffee Stop at Coaltown Coffee
Our next stop was Coaltown Coffee in Ammanford. Coaltown has transformed the area’s “black gold” legacy, taking the coal town’s heritage and turning it into award-winning, sustainably roasted coffee. The roastery, nestled on the edge of town, gave us a taste of Carmarthenshire’s evolving culture and commitment to supporting local industries.
Afternoon: Llandeilo, Newton House, and Dinefwr Castle
After recharging, we made our way to Llandeilo for lunch at Cegin Diod, then set out for a tour of Newton House. This 17th-century mansion, with its grand architecture and gardens, is said to be one of the most haunted houses in Wales, though we felt only a sense of beauty and peace as we strolled through its halls. The house is filled with historical displays and furniture that tell the story of Carmarthenshire’s aristocratic past.
From Newton House, we continued up to Dinefwr Castle, a 12th-century fortress overlooking the Tywi Valley. Walking through the 800-acre Dinefwr estate, we encountered the famous White Park cattle, a rare and ancient breed with origins tied to Welsh legend. According to local lore, these white cattle are linked to the Lady of the Lake, a mythical figure who is said to have brought a herd of magical cattle to the Welsh people. With their distinct white coats and striking horns, they added an ethereal touch to our walk, grounding the landscape in both nature and myth.
The views from Dinefwr Castle were breathtaking, and standing atop this historic hilltop, it was easy to imagine the Lord Rhys holding court here centuries ago, shaping the history of Wales.
Exploring Llandeilo afterward was a treat. This market town is brimming with boutique shops, delis, and charming streets that invite you to slow down and soak in the atmosphere. With its unique blend of history, nature, and local character, Llandeilo captured our hearts.
Heading Home
As we drove home, we felt enriched by the beauty, history, and charm of Carmarthenshire. Walking through its landscapes allowed us to connect with its past and present, making this corner of Wales feel both familiar and wonderfully new.
For anyone looking to explore Welsh beauty, history, and a wealth of walking paths, Carmarthenshire is waiting to be discovered.
