We spent three days exploring Ross-on-Wye and the surrounding area, with Piper in tow, combining some brilliant walks with independent shopping, ridiculously good food and plenty of time beside the river. One of the things that surprised me most was just how dog friendly our weekend was. Travelling with a dog can sometimes mean checking every restaurant, pub and activity in advance, but Piper was welcomed in so many of the places we visited that she simply became part of the weekend rather than something we had to plan around.
For me, that’s one of the things that makes Ross-on-Wye such a good option for a dog-friendly break from Cardiff. You have some fantastic walking country on the doorstep, a beautiful town to explore and plenty to do without needing to get back in the car once you’ve arrived.
Rather than driving straight to our accommodation, we decided to make the journey part of the weekend and headed first to Coppett Hill, near Goodrich. With woodland trails and views across the surrounding countryside, it was the perfect way to introduce ourselves to the Wye Valley and, more importantly, give Piper a decent walk after the drive.
From Coppett Hill we made a quick stop at Goodrich Castle before heading up to Symonds Yat Rock, one of the best-known viewpoints in the Wye Valley. Sitting high above the River Wye, the viewpoint looks down over the river as it snakes through the wooded valley below. We grabbed a pizza and ate overlooking the view, which is a pretty spectacular way to spend your first afternoon somewhere.
It’s also what immediately struck me about staying in Ross-on-Wye. You can be out walking through woodland, exploring historic sites or standing high above the Wye Valley during the day, then head back into town for dinner without having to travel particularly far.
Our base for the weekend was 6 Wye Valley Chambers, a beautiful apartment right in the centre of Ross-on-Wye. With high ceilings, loads of space and its own courtyard, it was a great place to stay with Piper, but its biggest selling point for me was the location. We were only a few minutes’ walk from the shops, restaurants and pubs in the town centre and around five minutes from the river.
That meant that once we’d checked in, we didn’t need the car. Morning or evening dog walks could simply involve clipping Piper’s lead on and wandering down to the Wye, while everything we wanted in the town centre was within walking distance. If you’re travelling with a dog, having that sort of access to green space directly from your accommodation makes life considerably easier.
Our first dinner of the weekend was at Esca Restaurant & Coffee Bar, an independent bistro in the centre of town where Piper was able to join us. The menu has some slightly unexpected combinations, including Parma ham served with melon ice cream. I wasn’t entirely convinced when I first saw it either, but trust me, it works. It was also our first indication that food was going to become quite a significant part of this particular weekend.
Saturday morning was all about exploring Ross-on-Wye itself, and this was probably when I really fell for the town. It’s genuinely beautiful, with historic buildings, colourful shopfronts and little streets that make you want to wander rather than rush from one attraction to another. What I particularly loved, though, was how many independent businesses there are. At a time when so many town centres are becoming increasingly interchangeable, Ross-on-Wye still feels very much like its own place.
We downloaded the free Ross-on-Wye Trails app, which has five different trails designed to help visitors explore the town, and chose the Vintage and Design Shopping Trail. The route links 16 specialist independent shops selling everything from antiques and collectables to jewellery, vintage clothing, interiors and gifts. It was a really clever way of discovering Ross because the trail gave us a loose route through the town while still allowing plenty of opportunities to disappear into whichever shops caught our attention.
We also visited Made in Ross, a collective showcasing work by local artists, designers and makers on the first floor of the historic Market House, before having a look around the Saturday Market downstairs. This combination of independent shops, local makers and markets gives Ross-on-Wye a character that you simply don’t get from a high street dominated by chains. Even better for us, Piper was welcomed into many of the places we visited, so exploring the town with her was remarkably easy.
By lunchtime we were ready for a break and headed to Victoria’s Coffee Shop on Broad Street. I ordered a toastie and, without wishing to oversell a toasted sandwich, it may genuinely have been the best toastie I’ve ever eaten. By this point, Ross-on-Wye was developing a rather impressive track record when it came to feeding us.
After lunch, it was time to swap the shops for walking boots and head back towards the River Wye for the Willow Walk. Starting near the Hope & Anchor, the route follows the river out of Ross-on-Wye and through its floodplain meadows towards Townsend Farm at Brampton Abbotts. It’s a lovely walk in its own right, but what makes it particularly interesting is how much of the history of this landscape is still visible along the way.
This part of Ross-on-Wye was once known as the Town Dock, a busy place where Wye trows unloaded their cargo, while willow weaving and basket making were important local industries. The walk passes through the Rope Walk, where rope was once made alongside baskets and boats, and eventually reaches the Willow Man, a sculpture celebrating the area’s willow-weaving heritage. The surrounding Withy Beds Field takes its name from the osier willow that was once cultivated here, with the harvested rods known locally as ‘withies’.
The floodplain meadows have another fascinating story. At Townsend Farm, 103 acres were compulsorily ploughed in 1940/41 to grow food crops for the war effort, despite local resistance. Today, the farm is being managed using regenerative farming practices designed to improve soil health, reduce pesticide use and help nature recover. The route also passes an old railway carriage that has been transformed into a bird hide before eventually following the old railway line back towards Ross-on-Wye.
There are several versions of the Willow Walk, including barrier-free options suitable for off-road wheelchairs such as mountain trikes and trampers, although some sections can become unsuitable following heavy rain or flooding. Dogs are welcome too, but the route crosses farmland where cattle, sheep, pigs, rheas, goats and horses may be grazing, so they need to be kept on leads around livestock.
After spending the afternoon beside the Wye, we ended Saturday back at the Hope & Anchor, a gorgeous riverside pub and an extremely convenient place to finish a day of walking. Piper could join us again, and after everything we’d clocked up on foot that day, the pork belly bites were very much deserved. If you visit, order them. You’ll understand.
After a busy Friday and Saturday, Sunday was deliberately slower. We started the morning with Park Yoga in Caroline Symonds Gardens, part of a programme of free outdoor yoga sessions. It was a lovely way to start the day and also highlighted something else I’d noticed over the weekend: you don’t actually need to spend a fortune filling your time in Ross-on-Wye. Between riverside walks, the Ross Trails app and seasonal activities and events, there are plenty of ways to explore the town without constantly reaching for your wallet.
Sunday lunch was at The Riverside Inn, where we had an incredible roast before heading back towards Caroline Symonds Gardens for Bands in the Park, Ross-on-Wye Town Council’s annual series of free outdoor summer concerts at the bandstand. By complete coincidence, the band performing on the Sunday we visited was the City of Cardiff Community Band, so having travelled from Cardiff to spend the weekend somewhere new, we ended it sitting beside the River Wye listening to a band from home.
Again, Piper had been able to be part of our day. That was probably the biggest takeaway from the weekend for me when it came to Ross-on-Wye’s dog friendliness. We hadn’t spent three days searching for things specifically designed for dog owners; we’d simply had the weekend we wanted to have and, in so many of the places we chose to visit, she could come too.
What surprised me most about Ross-on-Wye was how much we managed to fit into a weekend without it ever feeling rushed. Its proximity to Cardiff makes a huge difference. You don’t lose Friday evening or half of Sunday travelling, yet the River Wye, wooded hills and surrounding countryside make it feel like you’ve properly escaped.
For walkers, there is an enormous amount to explore in the surrounding Wye Valley, while routes like the Willow Walk mean you don’t necessarily need to drive anywhere to get your boots muddy. For anyone who loves independent businesses, Ross-on-Wye has the sort of town centre that rewards simply wandering around with no particular agenda. And if, like me, food is a fairly significant consideration when choosing somewhere for a weekend away, Esca, Victoria’s, the Hope & Anchor and The Riverside Inn gave us four very good reasons to come back.
Most importantly for us, travelling with Piper was incredibly easy. We found dog-friendly accommodation in the heart of town, could walk to the river within minutes and were able to take her into so many of the shops, cafés, restaurants and pubs we visited. Add in the countryside surrounding the town and you’ve got all the ingredients for a brilliant dog-friendly weekend without having to travel halfway across the country to find it.
I’d somehow managed to live less than an hour away without properly exploring Ross-on-Wye before. Having now spent a weekend walking its trails, rummaging around its independent shops, eating far too much good food and exploring it all with Piper, I don’t think it’ll take me quite so long to come back.
Friday: Drive from Cardiff and walk at Coppett Hill before visiting Goodrich Castle and heading to Symonds Yat Rock for pizza and views across the Wye Valley. Continue into Ross-on-Wye, check into 6 Wye Valley Chambers and spend the evening at Esca.
Saturday: Explore the town using the free Ross-on-Wye Trails app and follow the Vintage and Design Shopping Trail. Visit Made in Ross and the Saturday Market before stopping for lunch at Victoria’s Coffee Shop. Spend the afternoon walking the Willow Walk towards Townsend Farm before returning to Ross-on-Wye for an evening at the Hope & Anchor.
Sunday: Start the day with free Park Yoga in Caroline Symonds Gardens before enjoying a slower morning beside the river. Head to The Riverside Inn for Sunday lunch and finish the weekend with the free Bands in the Park concert before driving back to Cardiff.
For more ideas, walks, events and places to explore, head to the Ross-on-Wye Town Council website and start planning your own weekend in Ross-on-Wye.